I did a whole bunch of looking around for a supply monitor for my power supply I am building. This one seemed great but the minimum 6.5V input meant I could not supply lower voltages. Upon reading the reviews I found one detailing that removing the diode "D" and placing the power monitor supply positive lead on the cathode (part of the diode with the line on it). allowed for lower voltages to be measured. So I tried it and it worked! Just tweaked the alarm trigger to 0V and now it works great!

I did a whole bunch of looking around for a supply monitor for my power supply I am building. This one seemed great but the minimum 6.5V input meant I could not supply lower voltages. Upon reading the reviews I found one detailing that removing the diode "D" and placing the power monitor supply positive lead on the cathode (part of the diode with the line on it). allowed for lower voltages to be measured. So I tried it and it worked! Just tweaked the alarm trigger to 0V and now it works great!

I did a whole bunch of looking around for a supply monitor for my power supply I am building. This one seemed great but the minimum 6.5V input meant I could not supply lower voltages. Upon reading the reviews I found one detailing that removing the diode "D" and placing the power monitor supply positive lead on the cathode (part of the diode with the line on it). allowed for lower voltages to be measured. So I tried it and it worked! Just tweaked the alarm trigger to 0V and now it works great!

It happens that this power meter may give incorrect readings (more than should be). It can be calibrated by opening up the back and shorting the pads marked "W" on the PCB, then add 20V to the input and 1A load (20 Ohms) to the output. Then power on, wait for the display say "Pass" then power off and remove the short. Ta-daa: calibrated.

It happens that this power meter may give incorrect readings (more than should be). It can be calibrated by opening up the back and shorting the pads marked "W" on the PCB, then add 20V to the input and 1A load (20 Ohms) to the output. Then power on, wait for the display say "Pass" then power off and remove the short. Ta-daa: calibrated.

It happens that this power meter may give incorrect readings (more than should be). It can be calibrated by opening up the back and shorting the pads marked "W" on the PCB, then add 20V to the input and 1A load (20 Ohms) to the output. Then power on, wait for the display say "Pass" then power off and remove the short. Ta-daa: calibrated.